How to Build a Quad Anchor

The quadalette anchor in action. Photo: Jay Philbrick Photography

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The quadalette, aka the quad anchor offers a strong, fast, redundant, and simple anchor. It’s great for when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side fail. That makes it best suited for routes with modern, two-bolt belays and/or ice routes when using two screws at a stance. The quad also works well on multi-piece gear anchors, though it requires more consideration.

Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5.5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. You can easily store this system on your harness. Here’s how to tie it:

If you’re belaying a second up from the quad anchor:

If you’re setting up a top-rope anchor:

Note: While two strands offer ample strength for both climbers at the belay, clipping each climber into their own two strands lets one climber hang on the anchor without pulling on their partner.

The quad’s equalization/distribution comes in handy when the anchor relies on two pieces of equivalent strength—it distributes the load equally between the pieces.

The quad has a wide range of self-equalization between the two overhand knots. It accounts for changes in the direction of forces at a belay. If using two pieces whose strength is difficult to assess—older bolts, screws in sub-par ice, etc.—move the overhand knots closer together to reduce extension and the range over which the quad distributes forces (or self-equalizes).

At certain stances, a three-point quad anchor makes sense. Here’s how to rig it: